For those of you who thought the Cartier moment was passedâthink again.
From the avant-garde Crash to the iconic Tank Normale, the Parisian jewelerâs wares have seemingly never been hotter. And while Piaget had quite the moment last year and a Rolex Daytona will never not be hot, thereâs something about a simple, time-only dress watch in precious metal thatâs as enduring as the sun. Especially when it says âCartierâ on the dial.
Pacers point guard Tyrese Haliburton clearly knows what weâre talking about. Speaking to the press this week following a game against the San Antonio Spurs in Paris, the burgeoning watch collector rocked a Bamboo, a rare and funky vintage Cartier from the 1970s. (We can only assume that TikTok dealer extraordinaire Mike Nouveauâwho helped Pacers star pick up his Cartier Crash and Pebbleâsourced this piece for him.) The Bamboo Coussin (French for âcushionâ) represents a melding of Parisian and Eastern influences, with its distinctive shape taking on the aspect of rounded bamboo shoots that flow seamlessly one into the other as they form the rectangular caseâs bezel. Developed in the 1970s and produced in several sizes, the larger 28.5mm x 36mm ref. 78102âwhich Haliburton appears to be wearingâis thought to have been made in just 250 examples.
If Cartier is the hot brand at the moment, the Bamboo may be its hottest watch on the vintage market. Back in August of 2023, Nouveau was able to pick up a Coussin for âjustâ $12,000. (The video of him running uptown in New York after throwing his uneaten Sweetgreen salad in the trash to buy it is peak watch content.) Prices escalated fast after that. In January of the next year, Sacha Davidoff, one-half of the great Genevan vintage shop Roy & Sacha Davidoff, set the record for a yellow-gold Bamboo at $60,000. Now, youâd be extremely lucky to find this watch at the Davidoff price. A yellow-gold Bamboo, like Haliburtonâs, sold for $117,931 at Christieâs in November. If you really want to go crazy, try finding one of these in white gold. Only a few are known to exist and one just sold for $352,000 at Monaco Legends in October of last year.
Like many Cartier classics, the Bamboo, despite its avant-garde form, is readily identifiable as one of the brandâs uniquely shaped pieces. All the highlights that make the vintage Tank such an iconâthe white âPARISâ-signed lacquered dial with black Roman numerals, closed railroad minute track, and sword hands; the blue cabochon crown; the simple leather strapâare all present. This being an early 1970s model, itâs powered by a hand-wound, 17-jewel movement, which is a touch that horological purists appreciate. The caseback itself is held in place by four screws, which lends the watch a touch of the industrial despite its funky lines and organic inspiration.
Weâve come a long way from the early 2000s, a time when courtside watch spotting wouldâve yielded plenty in the way of gigantic IWCs, burly Panerais, and even gleaming Langes, but very little in the way of dainty yellow-gold Cartier dress watches. Times have certainly changed and thereâs something endearing about the idea of a nearly-seven-foot-tall man in a competitive team sport wearing what is, for all intents and purposes, a dainty horological museum piece to a press conference.
Pete Davidsonâs Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Pete Davidson wore a complicated version of a classic sports watch during an appearance on The Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon. The Patek Philippe ref. 5968A-001 is the first Aquanaut to feature a chronograph. Patekâs is powered by the automatic Caliber CH 28â520 C/522 with flyback capability, which allows the user to restart the chrono without stopping it first. Housed in a 42.2-mm stainless steel tonneau-shaped case with an embossed black dial, an outer 1/5th-second track in orange, applied white gold Arabic indices, and a lumed sword handset, it embodies much of the Gerald Genta âluxury sports watchâ sensibility while offering a slightly more playful aesthetic.
Drew Barrymoreâs Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Drew Barrymore, underrated watch collector, wore her Rolex Oyster Perpetual to the set of The Late Show with Stephen Colbert. Available in various sizes and dial colors, the OP is the modern, no-frills marriage of two legendary Rolex technologies: the waterproof Oyster case and the automatic, âperpetuallyâ winding movement with a rotor that moves through 360 degrees. While all Rolex modern sports models now feature these two technologies, the OP is for someone who wants a simple timepiece that can take a lickinâ and keep on tickinââbut also look great while doing so. Indeed, Barrymoreâs features a beautiful dark-green dial, but they also come in dark and light blue, silver, black turquoise, and more. (My favorite is the wildly un-Rolex âCelebrationâ dial, which features a turquoise background against which are set âbubblesâ in all the colors of the 2020 OP references.) Hat tip to the seemingly omniscient Nick Gould for the spot.
Taylor Swiftâs Cartier Panthère de Cartier
Embracing boyfriend Travis Kelce following the Chiefs win against the Bills, a gleaming, diamond-studded Panthère de Cartier was visible on Taylor Swiftâs wrist. Though there are more Panthère references in the modern Cartier catalog than one can safely shake a stick at, it looks like the worldâs most famous singer-songwriter chose a yellow gold Medium model with a 27 x 36-mm case, a diamond-set cabochon crown, and a matching multi-link bracelet. The gleaming dial with Roman numeral indices, railroad minute track, and blued steel sword hands is powered by a quartz movement, and the whole shebang is only 6-mm thick. With its popularity renewed as of late, the Panthère de Cartier is enjoying a second lease on life as a veritable 21st-century classic.
Jannik Sinnerâs Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Hoisting the Norman Brookes Challenge Cup following his second back-to-back Australian open win, Jannik Sinner wore a beautiful Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in Everose gold on a black Oysterflex bracelet. As a Rolex Testimonee, the young Italian phenom has been spotted in all manner of cool Rollies. But thereâs something about the precious-metal version of the brandâs classic automotive chronographâcomplete with triple-register display and powered by the automatic, COSC-certified cal. 4131 movementâthat makes his victory all the more memorable.